Our Mad Trips

Swallows

2010-08-31T22:43:00.000+01:00

Whilst we missed the swallows back in England, they clearly do exist in France. They probably saw the weather forecast and thought better of it.

Beaune Market

2010-08-31T22:41:00.000+01:00

Saturday 24th July 2010
Beaume Saturday morning market draws us in the van for some exploration. With Chris in the back in a camping chair, we head through some lovely villages (Bligny and Lusigny sur Ouche with their nice looking campsites before rolling into Beaume. A signpost diverts us via a reminiscing trip to Sauvigny Les Baeune and we show the young ones the village and vinyards of the Henri de Villamont estate. Baeune is very pleasant and we pick up some lunch at the market, spot the original Lazy Fish and take in the architecture (mainly the “gratuit” places).

Kath and Chris Arrive.

2010-08-31T22:37:00.002+01:00

Friday 23rd July 2010
A couple of days behind us, Katherine and Chris drive down today. We pack up in reasonably good time (11am)and think we are on for a short hop south. By the time we get going, queue around Reims, (even the motorway is dug up!) and make it down via the back road it takes us 6 hours of driving. We did however see some nice places like Montbard and Semur-en-Auxois (according to K&C, “Sem-en Analysis – doctors for you) to visit later. We pitch up at Arnay Le Duc and before long, K&C roll up after their monster trip.

Bath time

2010-08-31T22:35:00.000+01:00

Just had to include this one of Theo and his daily bath.

Reims

2010-08-31T22:33:00.000+01:00

Reims will be great when it is finished given some of the stunning architecture. When we turned up it was ALL being dug up. Everywhere!!! Highlights proved to be the Cathedral (a bit more austere and not as nice as Laon), the little independent Champagne seller (very nice), the fountain and the ice cream (no not a Mr Whippy).

Train to Reims

2010-08-31T22:30:00.000+01:00

Thursday 22nd July 2010
We take a lovely train into Reims. The station's a blast from the past with separate troop platforms and civilian platforms, much of which appears not to have been used since 1945.

Guigincourt

2010-08-31T22:27:00.000+01:00

The campsite in Guigincourt is nice and empty, perfect for bike riding and as it turns out, grazing horses. We are only here for a couple of nights as it is more of a stop over and a chance to see Reims.

Laon Cathedral

2010-08-31T22:24:00.001+01:00

Wednesday 21st July 2010
Early pack up and off to the tunnel. We are in a bit early and squeeze onto an earlier train and after a typically un-eventful crossing, we make it into France and are off. On the way down we take a detour via the medieval city of Laon. As we leave the motorway, we are stunned by the amazing city with its cathedral dominating an outcrop of land. We head up the hill, park up, have a very expensive Croque-Monsieur and investigate the Cathedral. Turns out to be one of the most stunning interiors as the glazing is plain and the cathedral is super-bright. The colours have not been edited, it really did look that weird.

Battle of Britain Memorial

2010-08-31T22:21:00.000+01:00

Via the Battle of Britain Memorial (resplendent with fake Spitfire and Hurricane) we drove into a completely dead Folkstone. Really oddly quiet. We spent a couple of hours in the pebbly beach throwing stones into the water under the watchful eye of the opera house, a strange neo-classical palace with an odd 1970’s cantilevered UFO stuck to the side. A fish bar stop sated the appetite and we walked it off with a wander past the unusual house fronts to “Suny Sands”. Apparently the only sandy beach within 1 hours drive of north London! Via a trip to the Sainsburies with no front, we headed for the campsite for a restful night....apart from poor Theo who is still suffering with post MMR temperatures.

Little Santenay

2010-08-31T22:17:00.000+01:00

We booked into Little Santenay Campsite just on the outskirts of Folkstone. With a great spot next to the swings, we chatted to the manager who pointed us in the right direction.

Sandbach to Folkstone

2010-08-31T22:07:00.000+01:00

Long journey to Folkstone broken up with us taking over the parking on the M1. Check out the alloys!

Camp Zizkov

2009-09-11T21:45:00.001+01:00

That same evening, we invite Jozka (and Helena, but she had blister) Jana, Paul, and Jirka for a little BBQ at our campsite location, and surprised everyone with what a nice little oasis there was in the middle of the park. The bar was well stocked and we spent a most pleasant evening entertaining our guests to a snapshot of our holiday.

Olympia Lunch

2009-09-11T21:44:00.003+01:00

Next day we meet with Jana, Paul and Kath for a nice lunch before they all rush off, Paul and Jana to go the Zlenice where Paul is roped in with some building work, and Katherine to go and copy more order’s of service (which later change anyway). We head to the play ground, fall out over nothing because everyone is tired before trying to get back to the campsite. Well, not so simple. We try for the tram, but I realise that I have misread the map, and the have to take the 22 up to the castle to have a short walk to get the no 1 back. We make it up the hill, walk down to the no 1 to find it has been re routed as the roads are all dug up. Eventually we walk back up the hill, and do find the no 1 on it’s new route and head home.

Hamrak

2009-09-11T21:44:00.001+01:00

We take the 136 bus to Sporilov and with a short walk past the sledging hill and the empty Hamrak Lake we meet up with Jozka, Helena, Mum, Anna, the video man, the video woman (both for the wedding), kuba, jirka, and later Katherine, Chris and the band/entourage. A few pleasant drinks and as we approach 11ish , we head up in the pitch black to try and find the bus stop. It takes a bit (lot) longer than expected, but eventually we find it, the bus arrives and we head back to our camper home for sleeps.

Railway lunch

2009-09-11T21:42:00.002+01:00

We break for lunch, and make the kids day by parking next to the main railway station (little things!). This is the great thing about the camper, you can stop anywhere, have lunch, somewhere to sit and watch the world go by. Toilet and fridge at the ready and a place to wash up before we move on. We drive into Prague with no incident, only one U turn and arrive a Camp Zizkov to settle in for 3 nights.
As we did not have a picture of lunch, I chose the coins thrown into the altar area in the kostnice.

Kostnice

2009-09-11T21:41:00.002+01:00

We stopped at Kutna Hora Kostnice (Bone Church) a couple of years ago, but because it was on the way, and because Elena could not remember it, we took a small detour and visited again. It is always an eye-opener to see the sheer number of skulls and bones and how it is all put together. The centre piece, the chandelier, is made up using every bone in the human body. Strangely it does not feel at all eerie, but actually quite a friendly and cheerful place as all the skulls smile at you from their various positions, smug in the knowledge that they are celebrated and not slowly rotting under the ground.

Velké Dářko

2009-09-11T21:40:00.001+01:00

As for campsites we thought we had turned up to a dodgy commune. The place was unkempt, toilets disgusting the forest littered with toilet paper (presumably because the forest was a better alternative to the toilets!) and the lake had a strange green slime skin. It was interesting to see that when people went swimming, they brushed/splashed the slime aside to make a clean path to the better water deeper out. Still, we were only there for the night.
Morning came and transformation!
A heron was feeding on the other bank, the boats on the lake glistened in the early sun, and as we went for a walk, the view opened up into a rather nice large lake (slime was still there, but not so bad). We went mushroom picking with some success and the kids enjoyed the off roading on the bikes. Our opinion altered, we packed up and headed north.

Telč

2009-09-11T21:38:00.001+01:00

After Třebič we are treated to Telč. We park up on the outskirts of town, and a five minute walk took us past the fish lakes (completely squirming with fish) into the amazing central square. The whole town is a Unesco protected heritage place and is picture postcard perfect. A very pleasant lunch and walk around (after a quick look up the clock tower) make for a very nice visit before we jump back in the van and continue to head north as we track towards Prague.

Wasps

2009-09-11T21:37:00.001+01:00

Why are there so many wasps in the Czech Republic? Since we crossed the border, we have been plagued with wasps. Someone needs to undertake a research paper, is it loss of predator habitat, or is it particularly good wasp conditions. Either way, it is a pain in the backside.

Třebič

2009-09-11T21:33:00.001+01:00

We pop into Třebič for a look around, and there are a few nice things of interest, but the main thing to remember is the cool little guitar that we bought. It is usually bought by motorbikers because it fits into panniers, but it is also great for kids. The guitars are great and much cheaper than in England. (although according to Jozka, they are even cheaper in America!) Town is soon explored and we head off for Telc which is meant to be better.

Trebic campsite

2009-09-11T21:32:00.002+01:00

On the way to Trebic we see a Velorex 3 wheeler. Brilliant. We park up at the campsite in the hook of the river (eaten alive by mosquitoes – this seems a common theme since Graz, but in combination with wasps a particular Czech speciality). The place is nearly empty when we arrive, and is filled with weeping willows and surrounded by the cute little huts to rent. We are joined by a few other travellers (for some strange reason a dutch couple decide to park right next to us) and with a bit of guitar serenading from a travelling builder, we have our loaded cheese (nakladanej hermelin – delicious) and pickled herring (disgusting). The morning is spent starting my speech – nightmare – and preparing to move on.

Bitov Castle

2009-09-11T21:30:00.001+01:00

The local castle is a 10 min bike ride, followed by a 30 minute walk up through the woods, and we are treated to a castle complex with the palace, the chapel, and more interestingly the dungeons. The torture chair is an especial hit with everyone, as is the russian ice cream, which is delicious between two wafers. Place is strange and has a mixture of old and fake old, but is a nice end to a pleasant (if steep) walk through the woods.

Bitov campsite.

2009-08-25T10:32:00.005+01:00

Another nice (and in common with other Czech campsites – loud) site, again on the banks of the reservoir with good swimming. This time we are treated to something unusual, a lone trumpeter starts playing high up on the rocks overlooking the valley, serenading everyone for about half an hour. The campsite becomes and impromptu audience, clapping and cheering for an encore. It is a great sound as the trumpet echoes around the valley. We also have a nice campfire late into the night before settling down to sleep.

Cornstejn Castle

2009-08-25T10:32:00.003+01:00

On the way through to Bitov we stop for a quick look at Conrnstejn. As is becoming our habit (because we are everywhere 2 hours later than planned) the place has just shut, but it is a nice setting and we have a wander around and a collective comfort break on the ruins.

Znojmo

2009-08-25T10:31:00.005+01:00

The next day in our ongoing search for money we head the 22km to Znojmo, the main local town, and after finding the cashpoint, we settle down to a hearty meal and beer. The town is really pretty with a massive open square (not littered with cars, kiosks, seating or anything else – a real lesson in quality urban space) and loads of nice historic areas and old town walls. I place definitely worth visiting again and exploring further.

Typical Czech countryside

2009-08-25T10:31:00.002+01:00

Miles of fruit trees on the side of the road is so typical

Vranov Resevoir

2009-08-25T10:30:00.002+01:00

The campsite is like a stage set out of the 1970’s. It is bizarre, but somehow very comfortable. The only modern thing about it is the suspension bridge that spans one of the inlets. For us it is a nice break because the reservoir is warm so the kids can swim, the place is quite large and open and there is Czech beer. ( next day we find out that this place is listed as one of the best 24 swim areas in the Czech Republic and Slovakia) We are still on a shoestring because the cashpoint in Vranov is out of order, but we still have an abundance of supplies from England so no problems there.
At 9pm we are treated to the open air theatre playing a sequel to terminator very loud. It is a strange atmosphere sitting in a clearing in a pine forest watching a large projection screen with terminator. I think this would be the idea setting for the Blairwitched Project.

Vranov Castle

2009-08-25T10:29:00.001+01:00

We turn up to Vranov a bit late for the castle, and being completely without money except for the camp fee, we wander around the nice old village by the river before returning to the van to move on round the other side of Vranov to get to the camping area.

Klosterneuberg

2009-08-25T10:28:00.005+01:00

This must be the most fancy opulent monastry anywhere. Some much for the simple monastic life! The place is dripping with gold and candles burn everywhere. We turn up part way through mass just as they are chanting the readings. Eventually the serious nature of the place is shattered by Kai and Elena arseing about in the trendy cycle racks. A few hours later, tourism complete, toilet emptied, (I hate chemical toilets), water replenished and van readied we head up to the Czech border and towards Vranow nad Dyje.

Paris to Moscow

2009-08-25T10:28:00.002+01:00

In the campsite we are treated to a rare treat there are 28 vintage cars (Citroen traction avant from between 1934 and 1957) all doing the 6000km round trip from Paris to Moscow. Both the cars and the original Citroen campers in support were brilliant. I want one.

Vienna traffic

2009-08-25T10:27:00.003+01:00

We head north aiming for a campsite just south of Vienna, and we are disappointed to find the place empty and derelict. It was one of those 1970’s places that has been shut a while and looks really eerie and sinister. So we have a quick look at the map and see a place just to the north of Vienna. As we approach Vienna at about 6.30, the motorway is blocked and I take the very unwise decision to head through the centre of Vienna. BAD IDEA. 2 hours later we are completely lost in the suburbs to the west of Vienna with the place gone dark and loads of roads closed. I decide to call it a day and try to find the motorway to head north towards the Czech border and camp wild. As is always the case, as we eventually find the north road, the road to Klosterneuberg is signposted and at 9pm we roll into the campsite and just park up in a random empty pitch. We treat ourselves to the best Vieneschnitzel and bed down for a good nights sleep after a stressful drive.

Graz

2009-08-25T10:27:00.002+01:00

Early up and early, the city of Graz beckons. Following the storm it is thankfully cooler and we enjoy the compact little city, taking in the old and the new before heading to the top of the hill in a lift carved out of the rock. It is a place full of architectural interest (the campsite owner tells us he has more architects and engineers staying over than any other profession!). The big blobby art gallery is OK (costs a fortune to get in!) and the funny shell thing in the river is also OK, but they do both look better in photographs than real life. A place definitely worth a more in depth visit.

Lightening Storm

2009-08-25T10:26:00.000+01:00

We plan out a trip into Graz, and head for te town campsite called Central. An odd name for a campsite that is in the suburbs, still the bus no 32 was just outside the campsite and it was an easy trip in. Two memorable things about the campsite, firstly the 11,000 sqm outdoor swimming pool with pebbles and rocks at the bottom (complete with ducklings) and the most incredible lightning storm.

Minimundus

2009-08-25T10:25:00.005+01:00

On our way north, we stop at the outskirts of Klagenfurt to have a look at Minimundus, the minature world. For something so tacky it is quite good, (bit too hot, but ice-creams sort that out). The models are fantastic, and it is 80 minutes well spent looking at the sights around the world.

Slovenian check point

2009-08-25T10:25:00.001+01:00

As we tried to cross the border into Austria, we were stopped by the Slovenian police. We found out that you need a sticker in your windscreen to show that you have paid for driving on the motorways. A kind of toll. We were blissfully unaware, but as he explained the 600 euro fine, we became very stupid and apologetic. Eventually he let us off and we were shown where to go and buy the ticket for Austria (same rules there for the motorways). The car next to us was not so lucky and the car was duly photographed and the occupants fined. With our lucky escape, we head through the 8km tunnel back up into Austria.

River Soca

2009-08-25T10:24:00.004+01:00

Next morning we are up relatively early and go for a walk along the river, the weirdest sight of the relatively warm air condensing over the icy cold stream meant there was a strange mist over the river. We wandered up along the river to where the rocks and waterfalls splashed away and were greeted with a series of crystal clear deep pools full of large trout. We watched some kayaks heading off down the river, (the area is renouned for the canyoning and extreme river sports), before we finally packed up to head north out of the mountains and into Austria.

Soca (Triglavski National park)

2009-08-25T10:23:00.001+01:00

After our road building incident, we do eventually find the right road and drive along the canjon that is the Soca riverbed in the national park. Camping wild is frowned upon in the park so we find a campsite in the bend of the river, park up and head for the river and enjoy the wire suspension bridge. The water is amazing, and the sand is like being in the caribean. The only shock is how cold the water is. We have a little competition to see who can stay in the longest. We managed about 15 seconds before the pain was un bearable. Still, it was a beautiful setting and that night with no streetlights the stars were really sparkling.

Landslide

2009-08-22T21:47:00.003+01:00

There have been some landslides, and after about 5km up this single track winding road (in places tarmac, in others just gravel), the road is so steep the van is struggling. We are also at nearly 2000m above sea level, so the performance of the van in the thin air has dropped off. There are no passing or turning areas aswe come round the corner to face a blocked road. There has been a landslide, and they are trying to fix it. It is going to be a problem, the road is steep and gravely, where there has been the landslide there is about a metre change in level and it is all soft gravel and loose stone. The scraper is out and we park up and chat with them in broken Slovenian.
It is agreed that they will try and get the road levelled out as best as possible, and that we should take a run up and go for it. 20 minutes later we are off, wheels spinning as we try to get a grip and up onto the ramp, we are about half way, the van is slowing up and as the wheels start to spin we bog down and stop. Nightmare. So were reverse back down, perilously close to the edge whilst they re build the road we have trashed, this time they call in a roller to flatten it a bit more, they also move the trucks so we can reverse further down the mountain for a longer run up.
So, nervously we back down the track, rev up and wheels spinning we speed up the track towards the flattened gravel trap, we hit the ramp and keeping full speed, we scrabble to the top of the slope, everyone cheers and we carry on up the mountain.

For about 500m when we come to a dead end at the mountain refuge. We have gone the wrong way!!!!! We toy with the idea of staying there overnight to save the embarrassment, but in the end we turn round and go back to the workmen, apologise, wave the map at them, laugh nervously and drive over their engineering works for the third time in 10 minutes. NIGHTMARE!

Into Slovenia

2009-08-22T21:46:00.004+01:00

We left Leinz and after a spot of lunch near Villach, we headed off the main road onto a small winding B road that rose up the mountains, the pass at the top signified Slovenia and we dropped down a very steep mountain into the most beautiful and dramatic scenery we have seen on the trip so far. The roads are reasonably unkept but the place is charming. We pass through a strange military fortification, (we later find it is Italian) and at a junction in the road we head towards Soca. (We thought!)

Leinz

2009-08-22T21:46:00.002+01:00

In the morning we cycled into Leinz with thousands of other bike mad people. It is like Holland but in the Tirol. Town is OK, but apart from having a pleasant town centre, not really worth noting. The only way we remembered the place when writing this blog was that it was the campsite we stayed on the outside of, with the man in the little tent encircled by Italian motorhomes. We also saw a great little remote controlled glider rising on the thermals.

Into Austria

2009-08-22T21:45:00.002+01:00

As we leave Tirol Castle we go east (jo has her worst map reading lapse to date, but I won’t keep going on about it…but it was really annoying, we had to track back and everyone was hungry and…). Still we made Austria, were pleasantly surprised how cheap everything was after the incredibly expensive Italy, and thought how Czech everything looked. We clock into the campsite on the edge of Leinz, the wild camping is a bit limited in the bottom if a steep side U shaped valley (for you geographers) because the edges are too steep and the bottom too cultivated.

Tirol Castle

2009-08-22T21:43:00.002+01:00

We head through Merano and park up on Dorf Tirol so that we can go and explore Tirol Castle. This is the castle that gives the Tyrol region it’s name and it was really impressive. It was a really big walk in searing heat, but at the top we were treated to the most amazing freshly pressed cloudy apple juice. I know it sounds bizarre, but it tasted really strange because it actually tasted of apples. As well as the castle itself, and self respecting architects will really enjoy the brutal core ten (rusty steel) interventions. The detailing was magnificent.

Algudo

2009-08-22T21:42:00.001+01:00

After our enormous drive, we roll into Menaro looking for the campsite, passing a strange standing stone sculpture we weave up some small back streets and arrive at the poshest campsite ever. It is brand new and really spick and span. We also learn as we check in that we are not in Merano at all, but in Algudo! It turns out to be a fortunate mistake, as Algudo is really nice, and as well as having its own vineyards, it also has its own brewery. Well, first job is obviously getting hold of some local wine and the “Forst Beer”. No problems. I find a specialist wine shop and manage to get some red AND some chilled white that was grown in the field next to our campsite. I also manage to find an off licence and get hold of the beer together with some great stuffed pimiento peppers. This trip really is all about the food and drink. Also bizarly, even though we are in Italy, they all speak Austrian. All the signs are dual lingo and asking for stuff in German seems fine. In the morning we cycle down to Merano which is OK, a bit of a spa town that is kind of grand, but more for old people than us youngsters. One thing that struck us about this whole region was the apple growing. Every square inch of space if covered in apples, not in an orchard, but in rows of short trimmed tall trees. It seemed to work well and the quantity of apples was increadible.

Stelvio pass

2009-08-22T21:39:00.003+01:00

So we make the Stelvio pass. In a Porsche, possibly the greatest driving road ever, in a camper – sweaty palmed hard work. The pass itself is wonderful (if a bit touristy) as from the saddle you can climb up even higher to get an amazing view down. It was higher than we expected at 2845m above sea level, from memory over twice the height of Ben Nevis. It was also a chance for the kids to play in some snow at the side of the road.

The journey actually took hours and we are now experts at turning the bus within inches of the rock face to one side and vertical drops to the other. It is especially fun when the barriers have collapsed and the edge of the road is cracked and falling away. Still we made it down most of the van intact and the knowledge that we conquered the pass.

I don't think it was what motorhomes were designed for, fan running to cool the engine on the way up, and brakes stinking on the way down.

Zernez

2009-08-22T21:38:00.002+01:00

The cold campsite next to the river was a great location to explore the lovely little village. The kids chose the camp-platz next to the children’s play area and we had peace for hours on end. In the morning we headed up the hill to the super tall and thin little church that commanded the best views across the valley. More playing in the mountain torrents and we were off to tackle the Selvio Pass.

St Moritz.

2009-08-18T21:35:00.004+01:00

And after our little cold water pit stop we head for the ultra posh St Moritz. It really is incredibly posh. Fur coats and white jeans appears to be de-rigour when shopping in Prada these days! The hotels are full of Rolls and Bentleys, and because it is a sporty kind of alpine place, the stretch limos have bike and ski racks on the roof. Fantastic. We park up by the lake (making use of St Moritz sailing club car parking, the only bit that seems to be free.) as I head into the main town to search out some decent swiss and Austrian maps for the next leg of our journey. Kids do a bit of acrobatics, and before we know it we are off again.

Glacial torrent

2009-08-18T21:34:00.001+01:00

So after lunch we make it into Switzerland and immediately notice a few things: the place is cleaner – a lot cleaner, the roads are smoother, all the lights work in the tunnels, there are no adverts littering the roadside, people drive more considerately, they do not honk at random, villages have a start and an end and numerous other details. One important one for us, is that there are layby’s, something distinctly missing in Italy. We make use of one and stumble upon an amazing glacial torrent, complete with sparkling rocks and deer prints in the soft glacial sands. (It was also cold enough to undertake cryogenics!) It also had some interesting advice on a sign in the layby, (You are near a hydro electric dam, if waters rise rapidly – run away.”

Great Escape

2009-08-18T21:32:00.002+01:00

So we are off back up north, the heat and intimidation of Northern Italy too much for us softies, and we are soon back in more comfortable territory. We check out the weather across Europe, and given that we are struggling with the 34 deg C in Italy, the 36 deg C in Croatia is one step too far. Unfortunately in some ways we decide to abandon Croatia for a cooler time of the year, and decide that heading up through Switzerland and Austria is the better part of valour.
Before long we pass Como and head up the winding valleys, stopping for a really nice lunch a few hundred yards from the swiss border where amongst other things we see the biggest spider web I have seen. A rough estimate put it at 3m in diameter!

Night on Lake Como

2009-08-18T21:31:00.001+01:00

So our brief spell in the minging Italian Lakes nearly over before it starts, one of the memorable views was the evening lights across Lake Como. Fortunately the picture does not capture the rancid smell coming off the lake.

The Italian Lakes

2009-08-18T21:30:00.000+01:00

We were really looking forward to the Italian Lakes - oh how we were disappointed. After the ups of the previous days going through France, Italy is a grotty little hole. Cities are great if you can fly there, and I guess the Umbrian villas are wonderful too, but driving from Aosta to the North of Milan is just horrible. Not made any easier by the lack of road junction numbers. It was also not helped by 37 deg C high humidity and no air conditioning but still – rubbish. The Italians appear to have either very little money or very little pride (or both) because everywhere outside the cities is dirty, unkept, covered in tatty advertising and for the bulk of the day shut in the name of siesta. I cannot get over how horrible driving through the towns was, especially compared to the pleasure of the French counter parts.
We at least thought that Lake Como would be great, again, what a nightmare, a metropolis of villas extending up the hills as far the eye could see with little way of getting near any of the water, certainly not in a camper where there was no parking available, so we ended up driving on only catching a brief glimpse of the much over rated and over developed highly polluted lake.
One small highlight whilst we were desperately trying to find a campsite was winding our way at random through a small village Bosisio Parnini (actually very nice) and ending up in a park by the Lake Pusiano. Given the heat, it was kit off and in the water.( i will get a picture up when I get it off Jo's camera)
Problem was that we still had no where to stay, this area is simply not safe enough to stay at the side of the road (a general problem in Italy) and there were no campsites around. Eventually I managed to get an internet connection and find a couple of sites about 20km further up the road. And there we found Camping de Riviera – it is just ghastly. I know we have been spoilt over the last few days, but it is just murder. We are now looking at the map of Europe and going to head rapidly north to exit Italy which has been a massive disappointment. It is too much like hard work trying to find safe decent places to stay.

Lac Du Beauregard.

2009-08-18T21:29:00.003+01:00

Our next target sleepover was another dam, this time high up on the Italian side, a place called Lac du Beauregard. We wound our way up past the Italian ski stations until we were just below the glacier line along the narrowest little roads, cantilevered in some areas off the edge of the cliffs. Being in Italy there were no barriers, and in some areas where the road was crumbling away, there was just a bit of Herras fencing to stop you going too close to the edge! We were struggling to get anywhere to turn the van around, never mind finding a camping spot, until we can to a small turning circle that then became our home for the night. Whilst it was unusual, the location with Torrent Bouc that created a massive waterfall, the glaciers and the rugged mountains formed a very impressive backdrop to our stay.

Mont Blanc

2009-08-18T21:28:00.002+01:00

Next morning we are up to the top of St Bernards pass, we pass the refuge that is now the border crossing with Italy and back down the incredibly tight winding road, brakes smoking and smelling all the way down until we reach the Aosta Valley floor and head to Courmayeur. Here we take the opportunity to take 3 cable cars to reach the Italian side of Aguille du Midi, at 3600m above sea level, it is as close as you can get to Mont Blanc without crampons and an ice axe. The temperature drop from Courmayour is increadible, 34 deg C at the bottom, 6 deg C at the top. The view is breathtaking, (as is the lack of oxygen) and one to remember from a bright summers day.

Lac Du Roseland

2009-08-18T21:25:00.001+01:00

We carry on up the ever tighter hairpins towards the Rosland pass, aiming for the Lac du Roseland as our next sleep over point. It is a modest sized hydroelectric dam high built in the 60’s high up in the alps. Does not sound very romantic, but the scenery is unbelieveable. We camp at the edge over night with a view of the sun setting on the opposite side of the lake. The snow capped mountains in the distance, the last to capture the orange glimmer of sunset, are those of Mont Blanc. Those in the foreground are the Pass de Roseland, our route tomorrow towards Courmayeur and the Italian border. After the traffic has long gone, we get the bikes out and cycle across the dam, the Barrage du Roseland, towards our van and our campsite for the night.

Beaufort

2009-08-18T21:24:00.001+01:00

South to Albertville before we peel off into the territory of the mountain goat, The van is relatively nimble and the never ending hairpins are dispatched with little fuss. We head higher and higher until we reach the little town of Beaufort. It is a pretty mountain village famous for its cheese. So, we pop into a local butcher who points us in the direction of the local “laiterie co-operative” where we are treated to watching them make the cheese, (big rounds nearly 2 feet across and 6 inches wide (600mmx150mm for our European readers,)) before we go downstairs and buy half a kilogram (a pound for our American and older British readers) of the stuff. It is absolutely fresh and delicious, a bit like a firm creamy Gouda with a bit more texture, nothing like eating the cheese straight from the local dairy. Even this high in the Alps, it is still 32 degC!

Annency camping.

2009-08-16T23:01:00.001+01:00

Well getting a camping spot was a bugger. The place is rammed, something we became a bit spoilt with previously. So without any further ado, we head down to the lake for a swim. It was picture postcard perfect. The water was a greenish crystal clear colour, and we managed a swim just as the sun was setting on the opposite side of the lake. In the morning we fit in another swim under the steep mountains before we pack up and head off into the mountains proper.

Off to the Alps

2009-08-16T23:00:00.001+01:00

And so, after a nice lunch in the shade of an avenue of limes in the centre of Sauvigny de Beaume, we head south for our next stage to Annency. Before long, we suddenly arrive at a tunnel, and as we come out the change in the scenery is incredible. The water is azure, the mountains steep and dramatic and the viaducts sweep across the valleys. It is a great introduction to the Alps in the summer, and strange to see it without snow. We pass a sign that says 34 deg C. We know it is hot, but surely not that hot. The journey passes without incident, until we hit the traffic jams of Annency at rush hour. That was a shock to the system. An hour later and we get through to the lake to try and find a camping area.

Savigny de Beaume

2009-08-16T22:57:00.002+01:00

Waking up, the baker arrives at 8am with fresh baguettes. Given that we are in the heart of the Savigny de Beaume Appelation and the area is renowned for its wine making, it would be wrong not to try and get into some “caves” (cellars) and see what was going on. We headed past the very eccentric Chateau de Savigny, (with gardens full of fighter jets amongst the neatly clipped hedges and flower beds) and up towards the illustrious Henri de Villamont vineyard. The place is deserted, so I enter to find a nice lady who is prepared to open up for us. We were in for a treat. First they showed us the fields of vines, laden with grapes due to be harvested next month, with the area where there is a particularly good terroir for their best Cru’s. Then we went inside to see the massive vats where they ferment the grapes for one month before they are put in barrels. Then we went down the winding little staircase into the historic cellars, where the casks are laid out, some cellars for white wines, some for red. She opens up the casks and we can hear the wine fizzing as it ferments in the oak barrel. (only French oak apparently) So after a tour we get to sample the wines and finally cannot resist buying some fantastic grand cru’s that were grown just next to our campsite for us to savour during the rest of our journey.

Beaume

2009-08-13T09:21:00.001+01:00

As we keep heading south we move from Champagne to Burgundy. This time we head for a small village just outside Beaume. We check into the local campsite, purchase 2 bottles of wine, (the Pinot Noir from the village we are staying in is delicious) and settle down after dinner to the sound of the gurgling brook to lie back and watch the shooting stars.

Abbey Fontaney

2009-08-13T09:19:00.004+01:00

It turns out this Cistercian Abbey from the 12^th century is a UNESCO national monument. All we know is that we have a lot of fun running around taking pictures. We took hundreds of pictures here, and when I next have a decent Wifi connection, I will try and sort them onto Flickr. We all loved the working waterwheel, the fountain full of rainbow trout and the gravel floored church. It is still lived and worked by the monks (who had a brief absence between the French Revolution and 1906) and whilst some areas are out of bounds, most of it is opened up to show what a crap life a monk in the 12^th century would have had.

Source of the Seine.

2009-08-13T09:18:00.002+01:00

Not quite the source, but never the less, we were all impressed that this small river eventually flowed through Paris. It is a shame that we cannot stay longer, because this little town has lots to explore. Maybe another time.

Fountain fun

2009-08-13T09:16:00.003+01:00

So, bread purchased, next stop the local café bar for a hot chocolate and coffee, kids well amused with the fountain whilst I worked out how the get soft running water on the brightest of days.

Morning Bread

2009-08-13T09:14:00.001+01:00

With mornings, comes the religious quest for the Boulangerie. This one was particularly good, so we treated ourselves to a rich helping of pain au chocholat and baguettes.

Morning Ride

2009-08-13T09:13:00.001+01:00

So with a beautiful morning, we se off for a small ride through the woods, checking out the orange slugs, Elena apparently rode over one, before we stumbled upon another clearing, this one containing a see saw, much the their delight. With a breakfast under the Oak canopy to ourselves, we eventually tidied up and moved off.

Forest Adventure

2009-08-13T09:12:00.003+01:00

From the lakes we head off, straight in the wrong direction! After a short debate about map reading, we re-trace our steps and head south for Chatillon-sur-Seine with a view of finding somewhere a bit wilder to camp. We head up towards an area of forest and stumble upon an amazing Oak clearing; complete with some nice swings and a big area to run around. Kai immediately spots some enormous bright orange slugs with purple heads, and I point out the poisonous berries to Elena. The BBQ is ceremoniously lit and we settle down for a quiet night in the middle of the forest. That is until about 10 o’clock when a van turns up a couple of hundred yards away, leaves it’s lights on as the occupants clang around with something that sounds like metal bars in the back, they the proceed to disappear into the forest, lights still on) and come back 15 mins later. A woman is sobbing, man comes back and they both drive off. We are well freaked out! Anyway, we wake up in the morning having not been murdered to a fantastic view into the forest.

The Great Lakes

2009-08-13T09:10:00.000+01:00

We were looking to stop for lunch when we come across a beach on the edge of the great lakes. Rather than a quick lunch stop we end up spending all afternoon there and I finally have a chance to catch up on some of this blog. Picture on other camera so I will upload it later.

Vernacular architecture

2009-08-13T09:09:00.001+01:00

As we drive through the little villages (which feel very Czech), we marvel at how unkempt they all are. The pavements are just dusty gravel, the paint peeling and fading in a nostalgic kind of way, and the amazing timber buildings are gently falling to pieces, never to be repaired, but expressing their fantastic skeletons.

Rolling Countryside

2009-08-13T09:07:00.002+01:00

We have a bit of a lie in, repack the van now we know what we are doing, and by mid day, we are ready to make a move further south. Given yesterdays marathon drive, today we are planning a far more leisurely affair, and we set off down the N44. The country side opens up and as we drive down the never endingly straight Roman Roads, the rolling countryside opens up with a massive patchwork quilt of sunflowers, sweetcorn, corn stubble and recently ploughed fields. The little villages with their quirky spires (some almost Russian style) intersperse the mass of agriculture. That and the massive 10 storey grain silos!

Chalons de Champagne

2009-08-12T14:09:00.002+01:00

We do not see much of Chalons as it is a bit of a transit stop for us, but we park up next to a nice lake, crack open a beer, put on the BBQ and the holiday starts in earnest.

The first Aires.

2009-08-12T14:07:00.001+01:00

So a couple of hours in, we make our first stop on French soil. These rather nice little Aires are like mini parking/campsite areas where you can take a break (on some, empty the chemical toilet *still not nice*), and enjoy the French toilet architecture. We continue on down towards Reims, get a horrible surprise at the Peage (£28 toll road – extortionate – we wondered why the roads were so quiet.), and after a long days driving we are in the centre of the Champagne Region in a place called Chalons de Champagne.

The crossing

2009-08-12T14:06:00.001+01:00

With a straightforward trip to Folkstone, we are in time to check in, be mustered into the high vehicles section, line up at the top of the slipway before we drive down into the (very) narrow trains. With the journey only being 25 minutes, we are soon in Calais, filling up with diesel and heading down the A26 towards Reims.

Windsor campsite

2009-08-12T14:04:00.003+01:00

So, the first leg of Derby to Windsor via central London over with, I wait a couple of hours for Jo and the kids to arrive from Cornwall and we settle for the first night in our new home, which by this stage has the entire contents of both cars in it and is well weighed down. The inside is like a bomb has gone off in it, (it actually takes at least 2-3 days to get vaguely organised.) So far I have only driven through two low trees, and we are set for our trip to Folkstone and beyond. I have also realised that I have left the kids bike hats behind, so a mad dash to Halford secures 2 hats for £10 each and the full compliment of equipment is in place.

Central London Bus

2009-08-12T14:02:00.001+01:00

Last few days manic! Packed up the car so full that the only way to get the last bits in was to open the windows and stuff things through the window. Picking up the van was fine, a few instructions on changing the chemical toilet *nice* refilling and using the fridge/boiler/cooker/TV etc and I was off to London. Van pretty easy to drive on the wide roads and motorway, not really looking forward to the small ro or busy roads. As luck would have it both the M25 and M4 were either blocked or closed so with the prospect of a 9 mile queue, I headed straight through the baptism of fire that was central London. (at least I got to see Wembley stadium) As it happens, all is fine because everyone keeps well away from you. It is like having massive L plates.

Night Clouds

2009-08-04T22:29:00.003+01:00

After a gentle evening of packing the camping equipment, it is 9.45m and the night clouds are coming in. Amazing to see it go from clear skies to completely overcast in 5 minutes. This picture is across the back garden towards the "monster tree" about half way to becoming completely clouded over.

Lists and lists

2009-08-03T09:15:00.002+01:00

So, early start on the train to Birmingham for a meeting. Making best use of the time by writing never ending lists of things to remember.
Last night went well with an itinerary through France just to get the first few days settled.
Maidenhead - Folkstone - Calais - Laon - Reims - Chalones en Champagne is looking a promising first day. Second day Troyes - Abbey de Fontenay - Semur en Auxion and a stop over in Beaumes. Beyond that gentle trip to the beautiful lake of Annency and the Alps begin.
Of course, this may be a way too optimisic rate of travel and things may slow considerably once we know what is achievable.

300 miles to go

2009-08-02T19:22:00.003+01:00

And they are off. Jo, Kai, Elena and Theo are off for a week in Cornwall. The DVD's are plugged in, car oiled, watered and fed, and all I have to do is see how many Photoshop effects I can find. New camera working well, but with a distinct lack of new subject matter, I am reliant on coloured nappies and the Gradiant Map Filter.
So instead of preparing for the impending journey, I busy myself with buying a nice fillet steak and a bottle of red wine. (Sorry Jo.) Not to worry, Top Gear soon.

The Cornwall Dash

2009-08-02T18:59:00.002+01:00

So, Sunday, Jo and kids off to Cornwall for the week. As expected, the mad melee of washing, packing and drying. All told, 24 hours to pack for 4 weeks (including the "British summer", camping in southern Europe, and a wedding. Aaaargh the wedding - no speech!!!!) is enough to test anyone.
Theo manages a few last minute vomits, Kai and Elena pack up their favourite toys and teddies, and before we know it, the car is packed like a 3D tessalation.

Summer Rain

2009-08-01T21:31:00.003+01:00

So, the first day, the campervan (horsebox according to Kai), is ordered, Le Shuttle booked and we have 1 week to go before we are off. This morning, I went to the library with Kai and Elena and we have armfulls of guides, maps and books to digest.

We are a little nervous of what awaits, but at the same time excited by the whole grand tour. This morning we had the hair-brained idea that Jo would go to Cornwall tomorrow morning, and that we would meet at a pre-agreed camping site next Sunday, before heading for Folkstone and onto the continent.

As for where we are going, the current ambitious plan is to head down to Reims, then Dijon, Annency and the Alps. A few days there, heading through Aosta to northern Italy, (maybe taking in the Top Gear greatest driving road!) and onward to the Adriatic before heading north to end in Prague for Katherine's wedding. (Damn, I still haven't written a speech!)

So, over the next week, we will get some planning done, before heading down south on Sunday 9th August.